A Journey into Campania Felix

The Campania cuisine truly is one of the great pillars on which the tradition italian gastronomy is based. Since the times of the Roman empire, Campania has been chosen by Emperors and Philosophers for its temperate climate, sweet territory, beautiful coasts and agricultural vocation. In fact, for these reasons, it is generally known as ‘Campania Felix’. The land and the climate have exalted the extraordinary agricultural abilities of a large part of the region, where there is still an extremely interesting richness of a variety of vegetables and animals. The internal areas, those further away from the sea, contribute to making the region a particular unicum, enriched by a history influenced by many different cultures, which has produced a happy union between farming simplicity and the monumentality of the baroque period. Literature has described, exalted and sung this gastronomy that is so solar, imaginative and spectacular. To give a few examples, we only need mention the ‘Oro di Napoli’ (Naples’ Gold) by Giuseppe Marotta, or the theatre work of the great Eduardo de Filippo. Pasta, with the tradition of the Gragnanese, is the symbol of the Neapolitans, who are, in fact nicknamed ‘maccheroni eaters’ by the French. This is an expression that has been coined, to substitute the previous name of ‘leaf eaters’ that had represented them up until that point. In fact the various pastas and soups, of which minestra maritata is the soup par excellence, help identify the two classic periods of the gastronomic evolution of the Neapolitan cuisine. The characteristic of the Campania dishes is closely linked to a knowledgeable use of extraordinary raw materials, the obvious example being pizza. This dish owes a lot to the san marzano tomato, the mozzarella di bufala or fiordilatte from Agerola and to the extra-virgin olive oil. All ingredients which, when united with the flat disc of bread obtained with ancient understanding of natural rising and cooking in a wood oven, have created an internationally successful product that has literally conquered the world. The dishes of popular cuisine, and those of noble cuisine have, with the evolution of history, reached a synthesis. Of course, in the sumptuousness of certain dishes such as the sartù di riso (a type of rice-based meatball) or the timballo di pasta (timbales) with béchamel sauce or, amongst the sweets, the babà (a pastry dessert), you can feel the effects of French or Northern European influence. However, even the simple and extraordinary recipes, such as ragù alla genovese (a popular onion-based dish, originating from the port area), or the fried dishes of pasta cresciuta filled with ricotta or anchovies, or served with a simple tomato, basil and savoury ricotta sauce (products once to be found all over the city), can also be considered ‘noble’. The variety of products used, has made Campania gastronomy quite extraordinary, starting with those from the vegetable garden. In these lands, a simple onion becomes the ramata di Montoro (copper coloured) or the bianca napoletana (Neapolitan white onion), garlic is either white from Vesuvio, or from Prata. In this way a strong link has been created between products, areas and local identity. Amongst cheese and dairy products the same thing has occurred with the provolone (a matured cheese made from cow’s milk) from Aversa, the dairy products from the Sorrento peninsula, the caprino (goat’s milk cheese) from Cileno, the pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese) from Sannio and the caciocavallo (cow’s milk cheese) from Irpinia and so forth. Campania boasts a cuisine of aromas and flavours that, unusually, sees the products from the inland areas as the protagonists, rather than the marine products. In any case, seafood cuisine should be mentioned for its history and for the seafaring districts’ traditions. Along the coast many ‘tunny fishing nets’ have conditioned the development and the existence itself of these ancient quarters. The fact that examples of fish breeding have been with us since Roman Time hints at the important relationship between Campania cuisine and the sea. As regards wine, there is a great oenological tradition in Campania. The island of Ischia is, in fact, one of the first places where the cultivation of vines in the Mediterranean area is historically documented. The wines of this region have recently been renewed, as much as regards farming and agronomic techniques, as the productive and transformation technologies, and they now stand out as being amongst the great national ‘top wines’. This is a success well earned by the traditionally rooted Campania vine dressers. To give just a couple of examples, the Falerno or the Cecubo were the most expensive and sought after wines in ancient Rome, and today the Taurasi is a modern representative of that tradition. We must also acknowledge those producers who, without following easy oenological methods, have successfully worked on the classic regional vines: the Aglianico and the Piedirosso amongst those of red berry, and the Fiano, Greco, Biancolella and Flanghina amongst those of white berry. The gastronomic panorama of Campania should therefore be admired with the attention that it deserves, as a great tradition whose food products have significantly influenced how Italy is seen throughout the world.